Where to eat · Italian trattoria & wine · €€ · 17e · Batignolles & Monceau

Vinello

Roberto Cubeta opened this trattoria-cum-cellar late in 2024 in the old Bigarrade premises, white tablecloths under raw stone. Vitello tonnato to start, tagliatelle with wild-boar ragù to follow, and a wine wall that runs from cheap-and-honest to ruinous.

Getting there

• Brochant13240 m · 4 min walk
• Pont Cardinet14250 m · 5 min walk
• La Fourche13570 m · 11 min walk

Within a few minutes' walk

• CorettaModern French bistro€€ · 4 minBeatriz Gonzalez (ex-Senderens) cooks precise, unfussy modern French food in a room looking onto the Martin Luther King park. Worth catching at lunch before the Michelin inspectors finish the job and the prices follow.
• MenelikEthiopian€ · 5 minA long-running Ethiopian room in the back streets above the Batignolles, where the beyaynetu — an assortment of stews and pulses spread over sour injera — is meant to be torn into by hand, no cutlery. The €26 formula throws in an aperitif and a half-bottle of wine.
• MontijoSpanish bodega€€ · 7 minA bodega on the Batignolles edge with a stained-glass window full of ready tapas and a list of southern-grape natural wines from Spain, Italy and Greece. The pan con tomate and a creamy tortilla under mayo do most of the talking.
• BodrumTurkish / kebab€ · 7 minThe meat is veal breast, boned and cut and marinated in a spice blend the owners trace to a grandfather's kitchen in Turkey — no turkey filler, which is the usual giveaway. People will tell you it's the best kebab in Paris; it is at least very good.
• Grand Hôtel ChicagoBoutique hotel€€ · 10 minA four-star on rue de Rome behind Gare Saint-Lazare, on the Batignolles edge — stylish rooms, a buffet breakfast, métro at the door. Soundproofing is the known weakness, so the courtyard side is the room to request.
• SalicorneMarket bistro€€ · 11 minCarol Pender cooked at Mokonuts before taking this narrow Batignolles room, where lunch is a handful of dishes weighted toward vegetables and shellfish and rewritten daily. The kitchen does more with a beetroot than most do with a rib of beef.