Where to eat · Natural wine & small plates · €€ · 11e · Oberkampf & Bastille

Aux Deux Amis

An Oberkampf wine bar with a daily chalkboard — beef tartare, charcuterie, whatever's in season — and orange wine by the glass. Loud, in the right way.

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Getting there

• Parmentier3210 m · 4 min walk
• Oberkampf59290 m · 5 min walk
• Saint-Ambroise9380 m · 7 min walk

Around the corner

Walks that pass nearby

• Cocktail Barsstop 6 of 6 · 620 m

  Bisou

  15 Boulevard du Temple, opened 2018 by ex-Mary Celeste bartender Nicolas Munoz. No menu — you tell the bartender what spirits and flavours you like, and they make you a drink. The deliberate inverse of the cocktail-book ritual: every drink is bespoke.

  No menu means you have to talk. Try "something with mezcal, smoky, not too sweet" or "surprise me with a gin drink" — both will be taken seriously. The bar is small, around 20 seats; arrive early or expect to wait. End of the cocktail tour, or the start of a longer night.

Within a few minutes' walk

• Pierre Sang in OberkampfFrench-Korean (blind tasting)€€ · 1 minPierre Sang Boyer cooks a no-menu, French-Korean tasting at an open counter and tells you what you ate only afterward. The €25 three-course lunch is a fair price for the format, with bo ssam and bibimbap motifs surfacing through the courses.
• ChambellandGluten-free bakery€€ · 2 minA fully gluten-free bakery and tea room off Oberkampf, milling its own rice and buckwheat flour, which is why coeliacs treat it as a pilgrimage. The rice-flour focaccia and the small chambelline loaves are the things to order; there is a proper salon with courtyard seating.
• L'Homme BleuBerber / Moroccan€€ · 6 minA Berber kitchen that has held this address since 1980, a handful of tables and semolina rolled three times. The royal couscous and the lamb tagine with dried fruit are the dishes that keep the regulars; it opens for dinner and runs late.
• BisouBespoke cocktail bar€€ · 8 minNo drinks menu at all: tell the bartender your mood and they build a bespoke cocktail from seasonal produce. A second bar, Bisou Canal, sits on Quai de Jemmapes in the 10th.
• Nonette Bánh MìVietnamese sandwich counter€ · 9 minKhanh-Ly Huynh, who won the French Masterchef, runs this banh mi counter with house-made charcuterie and bread from baker Frédéric Lalos, plus Southeast-Asian-leaning donuts worth ordering. The confit pork banh mi is the one to get.
• Le Repaire de CartoucheClassic bistro / game€€ · 9 minRodolphe Paquin has cooked here since 1997 and the room still runs on terrines, game and the kind of pâté en croûte that takes a day to build. The €20 lunch is the way in; in autumn the chalkboard turns to hare and venison.

Where to stay near Aux Deux Amis

• Hôtel FabricBoutique hotel€€ · 3 minA textile workshop turned 33-room hotel off Oberkampf, where the conversion left the brick, iron columns and factory glazing in plain sight. A steam room, a small gym and an honesty bar, minutes from République and the rue Oberkampf bars.
• Hôtel Ginette à la FolieBoutique hotel€€ · 6 minA four-star between République and Oberkampf whose rooftop is planted with two fig trees. Rooms are individually decorated, with a spa that can be booked out privately, within a short walk of the canal.
• Edgar Suites – Jules FerryServiced apartments€€ · 7 minEleven serviced apartments on the boulevard that edges the Canal Saint-Martin, each with a full kitchen and its own layout, with hotel-style cleaning and check-in but no lobby theatre — an apartment you can book for two nights.