Where to eat · Bouillon · € · 9e · South Pigalle & Opéra
Bouillon Chartier (Grands Boulevards)
An 1896 dining hall with bowtied waiters who still write your order on the paper cloth. Pot-au-feu or steak tartare, for the old cheap-Paris ritual.
No reservations; arrive at opening or late to dodge the queue. Atmosphere first, cooking second.
Getting there
- Grands Boulevards89130 m · 2 min walk
- Richelieu Drouot89320 m · 6 min walk
- Bourse3380 m · 7 min walk
Walks that pass nearby
- Covered Passagesstop 6 of 6 · 20 m
Passage Verdeau
1846, opened immediately after Jouffroy as its northern extension. Quieter, more old-bookshops, less foot traffic. The northern half rooflight is original cast iron with the rosettes intact.
From the north end of Jouffroy, cross Rue de la Grange Batelière — Verdeau begins directly opposite. Photographique Verdeau at no. 14 sells antique cameras and is run by a man who can date any pre-war Leica by smell.
- Bouillons & Brasseriesstop 1 of 6 · 40 m
Bouillon Chartier
7 Rue du Faubourg Montmartre, opened 1896. Still the original recipe: long communal tables, paper tablecloths, waiters in long aprons writing your order on the cloth itself. Three-course dinners under €20. The interior is classified historic.
No reservations — go at 17:30 (opening) or after 21:30 to skip the worst queue. Communal seating: you'll share a table with strangers, which is the whole point. Don't expect refined cooking; expect oeuf mayonnaise, hachis parmentier, and a crème caramel for €15 total.
- Paris-1900stop 5 of 6 · 40 m
Bouillon Chartier
1896. The dining room — coat racks, brass luggage shelves above the booths, beveled mirrors, painted ceiling — is unchanged since opening. Even the system of writing your bill on the paper tablecloth dates from 1896.
Stand at the entrance just inside the courtyard for thirty seconds and look at the room before you're seated. Best photo of the room is from the doorway. Order anything cheap; you're paying for the dining room, not the dish.
- Painters' Viewsstop 3 of 7 · 70 m
Pissarro at Boulevard Montmartre
Camille Pissarro spent winter 1897 in room 9 of the Grand Hôtel de Russie, on the corner of Boulevard Montmartre and Rue Drouot, painting fourteen canvases of the boulevard from the window — the same view at different times of day, in different weather, a series most museums now own one of.
Stand on the south side of Boulevard Montmartre between Rue Drouot and Rue Vivienne, looking east. The hotel building is no. 1 Boulevard Montmartre — now offices, but the third-floor windows are the painting's vantage. The Passage des Panoramas entrance is right next to it.
Within a few minutes' walk
- Hôtel ChopinBudget hotel (in a passage)€ · 1 minBuilt into the glass-roofed Passage Jouffroy in 1846, so no room faces a street — the quietest look over rooftops, and the Musée Grévin shares the arcade.
- Passage des PanoramasCovered passage€ · 2 minThe oldest covered passage in Paris (1799): a glass-roofed gallery of stamp dealers and old engravers, now lined with good little bistros and wine bars. The rainy-afternoon move.
- Hôtel Filigrane & SpaBoutique hotel & spa€€€ · 3 minA 2025 opening on rue Vivienne behind the old Bourse, worked in ink blues and forest greens. The distinction is below ground: a private indoor pool, hammam and sauna you can book by the 45-minute slot — uncommon at this size on the Right Bank.
- Passage VerdeauCovered passage€ · 4 minThe 1847 northern end of the Panoramas-Jouffroy-Verdeau chain, and the quietest of the three. Its glass canopy lights a row of antiquarian booksellers and print dealers specialised down to the object: old cameras, postcards, engravings.
- Hôtel de NellDesign hotel€€€ · 6 minThirty-three rooms on a quiet street off the Grands Boulevards, designed by Jean-Michel Wilmotte in sand tones, oak and stone — hushed where the neighbourhood is loud.
- The Hoxton, ParisDesign hotel€€ · 6 minAn 18th-century residence turned design-led social hub in Sentier, with a leafy courtyard wine bar, an all-day brasserie and a speakeasy below.
The district · 9e
South Pigalle & Opéra — SoPiOpéra Garnier and the grands magasins up top; below, South Pigalle (SoPi) has become the city's best mid-range eating and drinking quarter, with Rue des Martyrs climbing through it.
Best for: Eaters and drinkers who want a real neighbourhood scene a step off-centre.
Everything we've verified in the 9e →How we verified this
Confirmed currently operating as of August 2026,cross-checked against 2 sources:
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