Where to eat · Northern Vietnamese · €€ · 2e · Bourse & Sentier
Mắm From Hanoï
A Hanoi-born couple cook Northern Vietnamese food in a small Sentier room, and the 2026 Bib Gourmand has only made the table harder to get. The phở carries the saltier, bone-marrow-heavy broth of the north.
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Order the phở and the pork nems; book several days ahead and aim for lunch, when it's marginally less besieged.
Getting there
- Sentier3180 m · 3 min walk
- Bonne Nouvelle89220 m · 4 min walk
- Réaumur Sébastopol34350 m · 7 min walk
Around the corner
Walks that pass nearby
- Cinemas That Survivedstop 1 of 6 · 360 m
Le Grand Rex
1 Boulevard Poissonnière, opened December 1932 — the largest cinema in Europe (2,800 seats), and still operating. Art Deco facade, fortress-style spire, Spanish-Mediterranean themed interior with painted starry ceiling that has its own weather (clouds drift across before the film). Classified historic monument 1981.
Worth seeing a film in the main hall (Salle Grand Rex) — the smaller side rooms are ordinary. There's a backstage tour (les coulisses du cinéma) that includes the projection booth. The starry-ceiling 'meteo' starts about 15 min before the show.
- Sweet Parisstop 3 of 6 · 490 m
Stohrer
51 Rue Montorgueil, opened 1730 by Nicolas Stohrer, pâtissier to Louis XV. The oldest patisserie in Paris. The baba au rhum was invented here. Walls are classified historic. The window display alone is a 290-year-old argument for sugar.
Order a baba au rhum (the original recipe; ask them to add the rum at the counter) and walk it across the street to one of the benches on Rue Montorgueil. The Puits d'Amour — caramelised cream puff — is the second classic.
- Bouillons & Brasseriesstop 1 of 6 · 490 m
Bouillon Chartier
7 Rue du Faubourg Montmartre, opened 1896. Still the original recipe: long communal tables, paper tablecloths, waiters in long aprons writing your order on the cloth itself. Three-course dinners under €20. The interior is classified historic.
No reservations — go at 17:30 (opening) or after 21:30 to skip the worst queue. Communal seating: you'll share a table with strangers, which is the whole point. Don't expect refined cooking; expect oeuf mayonnaise, hachis parmentier, and a crème caramel for €15 total.
- Paris-1900stop 5 of 6 · 490 m
Bouillon Chartier
1896. The dining room — coat racks, brass luggage shelves above the booths, beveled mirrors, painted ceiling — is unchanged since opening. Even the system of writing your bill on the paper tablecloth dates from 1896.
Stand at the entrance just inside the courtyard for thirty seconds and look at the room before you're seated. Best photo of the room is from the doorway. Order anything cheap; you're paying for the dining room, not the dish.
Within a few minutes' walk
- Frenchie Bar à VinsWine bar with small plates€€ · 2 minGreg Marchand's no-reservations wine bar sits across the cobbles from his fully-booked Frenchie, doing brick-walled penance for the mothership's exclusivity. Small plates and wine by the glass, loud and a victim of its own popularity.
- Le Grand Rex — Les Étoiles du RexHistoric cinema (backstage tour)€€ · 4 minEurope's largest auditorium sits behind a 1932 Art Deco facade. The self-guided tour moves through the building's machinery — projection booth, the 2,700-seat grande salle, the special-effects room — narrated as a mock film shoot.
- Rex ClubElectronic club€€ · 4 minParis's longest-running room for techno and house, running its programming through a Funktion-One rig that rewards the people who came for the sound rather than the scene. Long sets that don't bother with last call until daylight.
- O'KariHammam (women only)€€€ · 6 minA women-only Moroccan hammam near Montorgueil, sold as timed rituals — steam, black-soap gommage and rhassoul clay — by appointment rather than drop-in.
- Gaîté LyriqueDigital-culture arts centre€ · 8 minA 19th-century operetta house converted into a centre for digital creation, reopened to the public on 13 January 2026 after a long closure. Talks, debates, screenings and concerts, Tuesday to Sunday.
- PoulicheNeo-bistro€€ · 8 minAmandine Chaignot's dining room trades on shared starters and a precise seasonal main, and at weekday lunch it stays inside the €30 line that her dinner menu abandons. Sundays bring a roast chicken carved at the table.
Where to stay near Mắm From Hanoï
- The Hoxton, ParisDesign hotel€€ · 4 minAn 18th-century residence turned design-led social hub in Sentier, with a leafy courtyard wine bar, an all-day brasserie and a speakeasy below.
- Hôtel TiquetonneBudget hotel€ · 9 minForty-odd plain rooms, several with the bathroom down the hall and none with a television, on a pedestrian lane off the Montorgueil market.
- Hôtel National des Arts et MétiersRooftop-view boutique hotel€€ · 9 minA Raphael-Navot-designed Marais boutique with a seasonal panoramic rooftop — Beaubourg to Notre-Dame — and a botanical cocktail bar at street level.
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The district · 2e
Bourse & Sentier — Covered passages and start-upsThe smallest arrondissement, threaded with nineteenth-century glass-roofed passages and, lately, the city's tech and restaurant energy around Rue Montorgueil and the old textile Sentier.
Best for: Eaters and drinkers who want to walk home; central without the Louvre crowds.
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