Where to eat · All-day small plates · €€ · 9e · South Pigalle & Opéra
Buvette
Jody Williams's tin-ceilinged South Pigalle room — a Paris transplant of the West Village original — pouring wine and turning out small plates from croissants at noon to coq au vin braised in a cocotte at night.
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The kitchen runs all day, one of the few places to eat well at three in the afternoon.
Getting there
- Pigalle212200 m · 4 min walk
- Saint-Georges12260 m · 5 min walk
- Abbesses12460 m · 9 min walk
Walks that pass nearby
- Painters' Viewsstop 5 of 7 · 200 m
Van Gogh at Père Tanguy
14 Rue Clauzel. Julien Tanguy ran a colour-supplies shop here in the 1880s and gave struggling painters credit on materials in exchange for paintings. Van Gogh painted three portraits of Tanguy, two of them in front of a wall covered in Japanese prints. The shop is gone but the building survives.
There's a small plaque on the building. The street is quiet and residential — visit, look up at the second-floor windows, then walk on. Don't expect a museum; this is a five-minute pilgrimage stop.
- Montmartre Heightsstop 2 of 6 · 400 m
Place des Abbesses
One of only two surviving Hector Guimard métro entrances with the original glass canopy. The cast-iron Art Nouveau lettering is the most photographed métro sign in the city.
The Saint-Jean-de-Montmartre church on the same square (1904) is the first reinforced-concrete church in the world — easy to miss because the brick facade looks conventional. Coffee at Le Sancerre on the corner is a Montmartre standby.
- Belle Époque Parisstop 6 of 6 · 430 m
Métro Abbesses entrance
Hector Guimard's 1900 cast-iron entrance. One of only two édicules with the original glass canopy still in place — the rest of his entrances had their roofs removed for being "too modern." The deepest station in the métro at 36 m.
Tap your ticket and ride the spiral staircase down rather than the lift — the walls are painted with murals on the way. Coming back up, take the lift; that's 174 steps the hard way. The other surviving original Guimard édicule is at Porte Dauphine.
- Cinemas That Survivedstop 3 of 6 · 560 m
Studio 28
10 Rue Tholozé, opened 1928 — the first ciné d'art-et-d'essai ("art-and-experiment cinema") in the world. Buñuel and Cocteau both consulted on the décor; the bar has Cocteau-designed light fittings and chairs. Premiered Buñuel and Dalí's L'Âge d'Or in 1930 to a riot.
The bar (open before films) is the secret — Cocteau's painted murals and original 1928 lamp shades. Have a drink in the courtyard garden behind, then sit in the velvet-seated single auditorium. Programming leans art-house and repertory; sometimes the film is in original-version English with French subtitles.
Within a few minutes' walk
- Le PantrucheNeo-bistro€€ · 3 minFranck Baranger's small SoPi room that helped write the modern bistronomy playbook in 2011 and still earns a Michelin Bib. The Grand Marnier soufflé is the dessert everyone tells you to keep room for.
- Bouillon PigalleBouillon€ · 4 minThe modern bouillon below Montmartre: oeuf mayo, bœuf bourguignon, île flottante, in big portions at small prices.
- Maison PigalleBoutique hotel€€ · 5 minAn ILO Collection address on rue Jean-Baptiste Pigalle, thirty-eight rooms balancing Haussmann mouldings against contemporary plainness — the lower-priced way to sleep in SoPi without surrendering the design.
- Le 1er Étage SoPiBoutique guesthouse€€ · 5 minA seven-room guesthouse over three floors of a 19th-century townhouse, entered by personal door code, each room different — nearer to renting a flat than checking into a hotel.
- Les Canailles PigalleBistro (Bib Gourmand)€€ · 5 minA 34-seat bistro on a quiet Pigalle side street — weekly menu, unpretentious service that still knows the wine list. The beef-tongue carpaccio and the rum baba you douse yourself are the house signatures.
- Madame ArthurDrag cabaret€€ · 5 minA drag cabaret operating under this name since 1946, now a weekly French-chanson revue in a small Pigalle room: four performers in opulent costume reworking the standards, the theme rewritten each week.
Where to stay near Buvette
- Grand Pigalle ExperimentalBoutique hotel€€ · 1 minThe Experimental Group's 2015 SoPi corner house — Dorothée Meilichzon's first hotel and still among her best — thirty-seven rooms over a cocktail bar that takes its drinks seriously. The ground floor is now Frenchie Pigalle.
- Hôtel MasséBoutique hotel€€€ · 1 minForty rooms over burgundy corridors in a Haussmann building deep in SoPi, where each room is deliberately unalike — sloped ceilings, open bathtubs, zinc-roof views — and every bathroom carries a tile signed by the artist Héloïse Rival.
- Le PigalleBoutique hotel€€ · 2 minA neighbourhood-soul hotel in South-Pigalle with no real front desk — the ground floor runs café, bar, vinyl and newsstand together, and rooms feel like a stylish local's flat.
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The district · 9e
South Pigalle & Opéra — SoPiOpéra Garnier and the grands magasins up top; below, South Pigalle (SoPi) has become the city's best mid-range eating and drinking quarter, with Rue des Martyrs climbing through it.
Best for: Eaters and drinkers who want a real neighbourhood scene a step off-centre.
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