Where to eat · Ramen · €€ · 6e · Saint-Germain-des-Prés
Kodawari Ramen (Yokochō)
An Odéon ramen-ya dressed as a Tokyo back-alley, with house-made noodles and broth and a Bib Gourmand for value. The chicken-based shoyu and shio bowls do the heavy lifting, with gyoza alongside.
No reservations and the wait runs to an hour at peak, so join the QR-code queue and wander off until your slot.
Getting there
- Mabillon10260 m · 5 min walk
- Odéon410320 m · 6 min walk
- Saint-Germain-des-Prés4330 m · 6 min walk
Walks that pass nearby
- Where the Writers Livedstop 3 of 6 · 90 m
Sartre & Beauvoir, Hôtel La Louisiane
60 Rue de Seine. Sartre and Beauvoir lived here in adjacent rooms in the 1940s — small, cheap, with a curving Art Nouveau staircase. Beauvoir wrote The Second Sex partly in room 50; Miles Davis stayed here on his first visits to Paris.
Still operating as a hotel — the lobby is open to the public, with a small display of the philosophers' invoices and Beauvoir's room key on the wall. Look but don't loiter; rooms 50 and 60 are upstairs and not visitable.
- Saint-Germain in 90 minutesstop 6 of 6 · 90 m
Cour du Commerce Saint-André
1735 covered passage, one of the oldest in Paris. Cobblestoned, lined with restaurants. Le Procope (1686 — the oldest café in the city) opens onto the passage; Marat's printing press was at no. 8; Guillotin built and tested his eponymous device's prototype on sheep at no. 9.
Enter from Rue Saint-André-des-Arts via the small archway with the wrought-iron sign. Walk slowly — the cobblestones are uneven and beautiful, and there's a fragment of the 12th-century Wall of Philippe Auguste visible inside one of the courtyards. Le Procope is at no. 13.
- Literary Cafésstop 1 of 7 · 130 m
Le Procope
Opened 1686 — the oldest continuously operating café in Paris. Voltaire is said to have drunk forty cups of coffee a day here. Benjamin Franklin came to draft parts of what became the U.S.–France alliance. The wood-panelled rooms upstairs still feel 18th-century.
Ask to sit upstairs — the ground floor is the bar, the upper floor is the original 18th-century rooms with Voltaire's writing desk on display. Best as a coffee or aperitif stop; the food is fine but the prices are tourist.
- Bouillons & Brasseriesstop 5 of 6 · 250 m
Vagenende
142 Boulevard Saint-Germain, opened 1904. Art Nouveau interior almost untouched since opening — flower-mosaic frieze, etched glass, brass fittings — and classified a historical monument in 1966. Reasonable prix-fixe lunch.
The 25 € prix-fixe lunch is the best Belle-Époque-room-for-the-money in Paris. The mosaic frieze of seasons running around the upper walls is the photograph; ask for a banquette table, not the centre.
Within a few minutes' walk
- Little BreizhCrêperie€ · 3 minA small Saint-Germain room where the buckwheat is organic and the galettes are folded with intent. The goat's-cheese-and-honey galette and a dessert crêpe of honey with buckwheat ice cream are the reasons to book.
- Musée national Eugène-DelacroixArtist house-museum€ · 3 minDelacroix took this apartment and built the garden studio behind it in 1857 to be near the Saint-Sulpice murals he was finishing, and died here in 1863. The real draw is the green courtyard and the purpose-built atelier off it.
- Citadines Saint-Germain-des-PrésAparthotel€€ · 4 minThe Ascott group's aparthotel chain — dependable if dated — with studios and one-beds that carry kitchenettes; this branch sits on the Seine opposite the Pont-Neuf.
- Hôtel des MarronniersGarden boutique hotel€€ · 5 minReached down a paved courtyard off rue Jacob, with a chestnut-tree garden where breakfast is served in summer and a glass conservatory looking onto it.
- L'Avant Comptoir de la MerStanding seafood wine bar€€ · 5 minCamdeborde's standing seafood annexe: a zinc bar, a corridor, and fifty photo-posters strung overhead in lieu of a menu. The warm whelks with wasabi mayo and the razor clams marinière justify the elbowing.
- La Villa Saint-Germain-des-PrésDesign hotel€€€ · 6 minTwenty-two rooms on rue Jacob, the bookish Left Bank street that has housed writers since the eighteenth century, redesigned by Bruno Borrione with clean lines and a counter-current pool and sauna in the basement.
Landmarks nearby
The district · 6e
Saint-Germain-des-Prés — The literary Left BankThe cafés where the existentialists held court — Flore, Deux Magots, Lipp — plus the Luxembourg Gardens and the city's densest run of galleries and antiquaires. Expensive, polished, and aware of it.
Best for: Those who want the postcard Left Bank and have the budget for it.
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