Where to eat · Bistro / brasserie · €€ · 6e · Saint-Germain-des-Prés
Le Comptoir du Relais
The counter that launched a thousand bistronomy imitations, now under Bruno Doucet but unchanged in character. By day it serves brasserie plates and country terrines without a reservation; by night it turns into a prix-fixe siege.
Come at lunch for the walk-in service and the charcuterie; skip the weeks-out dinner unless planned ahead.
Getting there
- Odéon410100 m · 2 min walk
- Mabillon10280 m · 5 min walk
- Cluny - La Sorbonne10410 m · 8 min walk
Walks that pass nearby
- Bouillons & Brasseriesstop 5 of 6 · 140 m
Vagenende
142 Boulevard Saint-Germain, opened 1904. Art Nouveau interior almost untouched since opening — flower-mosaic frieze, etched glass, brass fittings — and classified a historical monument in 1966. Reasonable prix-fixe lunch.
The 25 € prix-fixe lunch is the best Belle-Époque-room-for-the-money in Paris. The mosaic frieze of seasons running around the upper walls is the photograph; ask for a banquette table, not the centre.
- Literary Cafésstop 1 of 7 · 190 m
Le Procope
Opened 1686 — the oldest continuously operating café in Paris. Voltaire is said to have drunk forty cups of coffee a day here. Benjamin Franklin came to draft parts of what became the U.S.–France alliance. The wood-panelled rooms upstairs still feel 18th-century.
Ask to sit upstairs — the ground floor is the bar, the upper floor is the original 18th-century rooms with Voltaire's writing desk on display. Best as a coffee or aperitif stop; the food is fine but the prices are tourist.
- Saint-Germain in 90 minutesstop 5 of 6 · 210 m
Rue de Buci
Open-air market street since 1755, now mostly cafés and bistros. Bar du Marché on the corner of Rue de Buci and Rue de Seine is the after-work locals' spot; the small fish stall opposite is one of the few traditional commerces left.
Walk the entire length, west to east. The two-block stretch from Rue de Seine to Rue de l'Ancienne Comédie is the heart of the old market. Stop at the corner of Rue Mazarine for the famous photo angle of the wedge-shaped corner building.
- Where the Writers Livedstop 3 of 6 · 290 m
Sartre & Beauvoir, Hôtel La Louisiane
60 Rue de Seine. Sartre and Beauvoir lived here in adjacent rooms in the 1940s — small, cheap, with a curving Art Nouveau staircase. Beauvoir wrote The Second Sex partly in room 50; Miles Davis stayed here on his first visits to Paris.
Still operating as a hotel — the lobby is open to the public, with a small display of the philosophers' invoices and Beauvoir's room key on the wall. Look but don't loiter; rooms 50 and 60 are upstairs and not visitable.
Within a few minutes' walk
- L'Avant Comptoir de la MerStanding seafood wine bar€€ · 1 minCamdeborde's standing seafood annexe: a zinc bar, a corridor, and fifty photo-posters strung overhead in lieu of a menu. The warm whelks with wasabi mayo and the razor clams marinière justify the elbowing.
- Little BreizhCrêperie€ · 3 minA small Saint-Germain room where the buckwheat is organic and the galettes are folded with intent. The goat's-cheese-and-honey galette and a dessert crêpe of honey with buckwheat ice cream are the reasons to book.
- Hôtel Dame des ArtsRooftop-view design hotel€€€ · 5 minA board-formed concrete building at the Danton–Saint-Germain corner, interiors by Raphael Navot, opened 2023. The seventh-floor terrace gives a true 360 — Eiffel Tower one way, Notre-Dame the other.
- Bouillon RacineBouillon€€ · 6 minA 1906 Art Nouveau dining hall — carved wood, bevelled mirrors, listed as a monument — serving honest bouillon fare at prices that haven't chased the décor. The travers de porc de Picardie is the dependable order.
- Kodawari Ramen (Yokochō)Ramen€€ · 6 minAn Odéon ramen-ya dressed as a Tokyo back-alley, with house-made noodles and broth and a Bib Gourmand for value. The chicken-based shoyu and shio bowls do the heavy lifting, with gyoza alongside.
- Tiger BarGin cocktail bar€€ · 6 minA Saint-Germain bar built around gin — more than 200 bottles on the back wall and a menu that treats juniper as a subject rather than a base. Quiet street, serious list.
Landmarks nearby
The district · 6e
Saint-Germain-des-Prés — The literary Left BankThe cafés where the existentialists held court — Flore, Deux Magots, Lipp — plus the Luxembourg Gardens and the city's densest run of galleries and antiquaires. Expensive, polished, and aware of it.
Best for: Those who want the postcard Left Bank and have the budget for it.
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