Where to eat · South Indian (vegetarian) · € · 10e · Canal Saint-Martin & Gare du Nord
Krishna Bhavan
Strictly vegetarian Tamil cooking on the Sri Lankan-Indian stretch of La Chapelle: paper-thin dosas the length of your forearm, thalis served in steel, chai in metal cups. Loud, fast, and priced so low it embarrasses the rest of the city.
Go for a masala dosa or a thali; expect to share a table at peak hours.
Getting there
- La Chapelle2180 m · 3 min walk
- Gare du NordRER E240 m · 5 min walk
- Gare du Nord45RER BRER D290 m · 5 min walk
Around the corner
Wall of the Fermiers généraux · 640 m away
The wall of the Fermiers généraux was one of the several city walls of Paris built between the early Middle Ages and the mid 19th century. The purpose of the wall of the Fermiers généraux was to facilitate collection of municipal taxes on merchandise entering Paris.
Wikipedia ↗Walks that pass nearby
- Canal Saint-Martinstop 6 of 6 · 640 m
Rotonde de la Villette
Built 1788 by Claude-Nicolas Ledoux as one of 50 toll houses ringing pre-revolutionary Paris. Octagonal classical pavilion, surprisingly grand for what was essentially a customs booth. Now hosts a restaurant and exhibitions; the Bassin de la Villette behind it is the city's largest artificial body of water.
Walk around the rotunda once before entering — the four neoclassical porticoes are different. Behind it, the Bassin de la Villette stretches for 700 m to the Parc de la Villette; the wide quays are pedestrianised and full of pétanque players in the evenings.
Within a few minutes' walk
- Théâtre des Bouffes du NordTheatre (Peter Brook's house)€€ · 3 minPeter Brook took over this gutted 1876 hall in 1974 and left the scorched, peeling pink-red walls exactly as he found them; it has staged theatre, opera and chamber music in the round ever since, with no proscenium grandeur.
- St Christopher's Inn Paris - Gare du NordSocial hostel€ · 8 minTwo minutes from the Eurostar platforms, with Belushi's bar and a live-music pub directly below — convenient for an early train, less so for an early night. Privacy curtains on the bunks and two bars are the trade-off.
- Keur Bour GuewelSenegalese / West African€ · 11 minA Senegalese table in the thick of Château Rouge, working the canon — thiéboudienne, yassa, mafé — at a flat dozen euros a plate. From the evening it tips toward dibi and grilled meat, and the room stays open absurdly late.
The district · 10e
Canal Saint-Martin & Gare du Nord — Canal ParisThe locks and iron footbridges of the Canal Saint-Martin, the South Asian Passage Brady, the Faubourg Saint-Denis food strip, and two big stations. Young, mixed, and where a lot of the good cheap eating is.
Best for: Twenty-somethings and food-first travellers; lively rather than pretty.
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