Where to eat · Art Nouveau brasserie · €€ · 11e · Oberkampf & Bastille
Bistrot du Peintre
A 1902 brasserie with a listed Art Nouveau interior of curved wood and etched glass, the kind of room that justifies a plainer plate. Come for the onion soup gratinée and a tarte Tatin, and for the fact that it serves through the day when neighbours have closed.
Useful for an off-hours or late meal; sit inside for the room, or on the terrace for the corner.
Getting there
- Ledru Rollin8230 m · 4 min walk
- Voltaire9570 m · 11 min walk
- Charonne9590 m · 11 min walk
Walks that pass nearby
- Markets of Parisstop 3 of 6 · 310 m
Marché d'Aligre
Place d'Aligre. The cheapest market in central Paris and the only one with a brocante (flea market) running daily next to the produce stalls. The covered Marché Beauvau on the same square has the more upmarket cheeses and traiteurs.
Tuesday–Sunday mornings. Closes 13:30. The brocante is good for vintage glass and old kitchenware; haggle hard. Le Baron Rouge wine bar on the corner of Rue Théophile Roussel is the post-shopping local stop — Sundays they shuck oysters at the door.
- Bouillons & Brasseriesstop 4 of 6 · 540 m
Brasserie Bofinger
5-7 Rue de la Bastille, opened 1864 — claims to be the oldest brasserie in Paris. The first Parisian establishment to serve draught beer. The stained-glass dome is 1919 and original; ask for a table directly under it.
When booking, ask for "sous la coupole" — under the dome — that's the room you came for. The choucroute is the menu staple; the seafood plateau is also excellent and fairly priced compared to Le Dôme.
- Marais & Bastillestop 3 of 6 · 590 m
Place de la Bastille
The fortress was demolished in 1789; the marks on the pavement around the Colonne de Juillet trace where its walls stood. The column itself commemorates the 1830 revolution, not 1789.
The cobble outline of the fortress walls is on the western side of the square — easy to miss in traffic. Take Rue Saint-Antoine back west; the fastest way to Hôtel de Ville is along Rue de Rivoli, on the south side of the street under the arcades.
- Sundays Onlystop 4 of 6 · 640 m
Marché Bastille
Boulevard Richard-Lenoir, Sundays only (and Thursdays). The biggest open-air food market in Paris — over a kilometre of stalls. Lunch is the move: rotisserie chicken, oysters from the Atlantic stalls (overnight from the boat), and a bottle of cidre or rosé from a wine stall.
Closes at 14:30 sharp. Walk the central row first, then double back along the inner side rows where prices are 20% lower. The chicken-rotisserie stalls are the lunch standard; the cheese stall mid-market lets you taste before you buy.
Within a few minutes' walk
- Waly FaySenegalese / West African€€ · 7 minA long-running West African dining room that introduced a good part of the 11th to Senegalese cooking, dim-lit and slightly dressed-up. Order the poulet yassa, chicken under lime and slow-cooked onion, or the n'dolé with its bitter-leaf and peanut sauce.
- Le BalajoHistoric dance hall€€ · 7 minA 1936 musette hall on the old accordion street, the Balajo keeps its mirrored Deco room and still opens it on Monday afternoons for a thé dansant before the week tips into salsa classes and clubbing to dawn.
- Le Baron RougeMarket wine bar€ · 7 minWine straight from the barrel beside the Marché d'Aligre; in oyster season the crowd drinks standing on the pavement off upturned barrels.
- L'ÉbauchoirFrench bistro€€ · 8 minA genuine quartier bistro behind the Aligre market, working through trout gravlax, slow lamb shoulder and a chocolate torte that regulars treat as non-negotiable. The carte rewrites itself often; the lunch deal is where the value sits.
- Born Bad Record ShopRecord shop€ · 9 minTrading since 1999 and the eastern anchor of Paris vinyl, near Bastille. The bins lean garage, punk, post-punk, cold wave, surf, soul and French 1960s, in rare originals and quality reissues, much of it on the shop's own label.
- Coulée verte René-DumontElevated walk€ · 9 minNearly five kilometres of linear park along a railway viaduct closed in 1969 — the elevated walk that predates and prompted New York's High Line. The first stretch runs ten metres up over the brick arches of the Viaduc des Arts, whose vaults hold craft workshops.
The district · 11e
Oberkampf & Bastille — The going-out districtNo monuments to speak of, which is the point: the 11th is where Paris eats and drinks at night — natural-wine bars, neo-bistros, and the Oberkampf and Rue de Lappe nightlife. Bastille and the Marché d'Aligre edge sit inside it.
Best for: Anyone whose trip is built around dinner and a drink afterward.
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