Where to eat · Classic Parisian bistro · €€ · 11e · Oberkampf & Bastille
Le Bistrot Paul Bert
The blackboard-and-banquette bistro that a generation of imitators has been chasing, still turning out steak frites with pepper sauce and a Paris-Brest the size of a discus. The à la carte climbs, so the ~€19 lunch formule is how you eat here without spending.
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Reserve by phone and ask for the lunch formule; split the Paris-Brest, which arrives uncut and enormous.
Getting there
- Faidherbe Chaligny8230 m · 4 min walk
- Charonne9320 m · 6 min walk
- Rue des Boulets9350 m · 7 min walk
Walks that pass nearby
- Markets of Parisstop 3 of 6 · 550 m
Marché d'Aligre
Place d'Aligre. The cheapest market in central Paris and the only one with a brocante (flea market) running daily next to the produce stalls. The covered Marché Beauvau on the same square has the more upmarket cheeses and traiteurs.
Tuesday–Sunday mornings. Closes 13:30. The brocante is good for vintage glass and old kitchenware; haggle hard. Le Baron Rouge wine bar on the corner of Rue Théophile Roussel is the post-shopping local stop — Sundays they shuck oysters at the door.
Within a few minutes' walk
- Waly FaySenegalese / West African€€ · 6 minA long-running West African dining room that introduced a good part of the 11th to Senegalese cooking, dim-lit and slightly dressed-up. Order the poulet yassa, chicken under lime and slow-cooked onion, or the n'dolé with its bitter-leaf and peanut sauce.
- L'ÉbauchoirFrench bistro€€ · 7 minA genuine quartier bistro behind the Aligre market, working through trout gravlax, slow lamb shoulder and a chocolate torte that regulars treat as non-negotiable. The carte rewrites itself often; the lunch deal is where the value sits.
- Bistrot du PeintreArt Nouveau brasserie€€ · 11 minA 1902 brasserie with a listed Art Nouveau interior of curved wood and etched glass, the kind of room that justifies a plainer plate. Come for the onion soup gratinée and a tarte Tatin, and for the fact that it serves through the day when neighbours have closed.
Where to stay near Le Bistrot Paul Bert
- The People - Paris NationDesign hostel€€ · 19 minThe draw is the top floor: a rooftop bar and restaurant with a terrace that looks straight down onto Place de la Nation. Below it, dorms and private rooms in a renovated block on the eastern edge of the city.
- Maison TraversièreBoutique hotel€€ · 20 minA 32-room hotel on a slip of side street off the Gare de Lyon concourse, close enough to wheel a suitcase to the platform but angled away from the noise. The rooms were redone one at a time, each different.
- JO&JOE Paris NationDesign hostel€ · 22 minAccor's social-hostel format dropped into the 20th: bunk rooms and soundproofed doubles arranged around a bar and canteen, with a rooftop terrace that runs events through the warm months. Street-art finish, more considered than the price suggests.
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Landmarks nearby
The district · 11e
Oberkampf & Bastille — The going-out districtNo monuments to speak of, which is the point: the 11th is where Paris eats and drinks at night — natural-wine bars, neo-bistros, and the Oberkampf and Rue de Lappe nightlife. Bastille and the Marché d'Aligre edge sit inside it.
Best for: Anyone whose trip is built around dinner and a drink afterward.
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