Where to eat · Indian / Pakistani · € · 10e · Canal Saint-Martin & Gare du Nord

La Reine du Kashmir

One of the steadier kitchens in the covered Passage Brady, the glass-roofed alley of South Asian restaurants behind Strasbourg–Saint-Denis. Skip the touts working the passage and order the biryani or a tandoori-grill thali.

Getting there

• Château d'Eau / Mairie du 10e4180 m · 3 min walk
• Strasbourg - Saint-Denis489220 m · 4 min walk
• Bonne Nouvelle89450 m · 8 min walk

Walks that pass nearby

• Hidden Parisstop 6 of 6 · 490 m

  The smallest house in Paris

  39 Rue du Château d'Eau (10th): one room wide, one window per floor, three floors total. Built around 1880 to fill a property dispute — the family on either side refused to sell, so the inheriting daughter built up vertically in the alley between them.

  Walk along Rue du Château d'Eau between Place de la République and Boulevard de Strasbourg. The house is between nos. 37 and 41. It's a private home — don't ring the bell.

• Cinemas That Survivedstop 1 of 6 · 550 m

  Le Grand Rex

  1 Boulevard Poissonnière, opened December 1932 — the largest cinema in Europe (2,800 seats), and still operating. Art Deco facade, fortress-style spire, Spanish-Mediterranean themed interior with painted starry ceiling that has its own weather (clouds drift across before the film). Classified historic monument 1981.

  Worth seeing a film in the main hall (Salle Grand Rex) — the smaller side rooms are ordinary. There's a backstage tour (les coulisses du cinéma) that includes the projection booth. The starry-ceiling 'meteo' starts about 15 min before the show.

• Canal Saint-Martinstop 4 of 6 · 590 m

  Square Frédérick Lemaître

  The point where the Canal Saint-Martin disappears underground — covered over by Haussmann in 1860 to create Boulevard Richard-Lenoir. From here south, the canal flows under Boulevard Jules-Ferry, Boulevard Voltaire, and Boulevard Richard-Lenoir before emerging at the Bassin de l'Arsenal near Bastille.

  Look at the slatted iron grates set into the boulevard's central reservation — those are the canal's ventilation shafts. You can hear the water echoing below if you stand on one. The square's small fountain marks the underground entrance.

Within a few minutes' walk

• Le SyndicatSpeakeasy bar€€ · 1 minThe storefront is papered over with torn gig posters; the only signal is a gold metallic curtain. Inside, every cocktail is built exclusively from French spirits — Armagnac, Cognac, Calvados, Chartreuse.
• 52 Faubourg Saint-DenisNeo-bistro€€ · 1 minA walk-in-only neo-bistro from the Compagnon group with a short rotating menu — the egg-yolk ravioli with ham and mushroom is the signature.
• Urfa DürümKurdish / Turkish dürüm€ · 2 minA counter doing chicken or kefta dürüm grilled to order and rolled in a thin galette with herbs and onion — among the best cheap eats on Faubourg Saint-Denis.
• PoulicheNeo-bistro€€ · 3 minAmandine Chaignot's dining room trades on shared starters and a precise seasonal main, and at weekday lunch it stays inside the €30 line that her dinner menu abandons. Sundays bring a roast chicken carved at the table.
• New MorningJazz club€€ · 4 minA 450-capacity room running since 1981, broad enough in its booking to put gospel, the Bad Plus, Kenny Garrett and Joshua Redman in a single fortnight.
• Jah Jah by Le TricycleVegan Afro-Caribbean€ · 4 minA vegan Afro-Caribbean kitchen that grew out of three years selling hot dogs off a delivery tricycle. The daily bowls stack grains, legumes and sauce-slicked vegetables, flanked by cauliflower wings and the namesake hot dog.

More where to eat, nearest first

• Brigade du TigrePan-Asian neo-bistro · 10e · 520 m€€