Where to eat · Neo-bistro · €€ · 10e · Canal Saint-Martin & Gare du Nord
Pouliche
Amandine Chaignot's dining room trades on shared starters and a precise seasonal main, and at weekday lunch it stays inside the €30 line that her dinner menu abandons. Sundays bring a roast chicken carved at the table.
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Go at lunch for the value; book the Sunday roast chicken ahead.
Getting there
- Strasbourg - Saint-Denis489280 m · 5 min walk
- Château d'Eau / Mairie du 10e4300 m · 6 min walk
- Bonne Nouvelle89310 m · 6 min walk
Around the corner
Walks that pass nearby
- Cinemas That Survivedstop 1 of 6 · 400 m
Le Grand Rex
1 Boulevard Poissonnière, opened December 1932 — the largest cinema in Europe (2,800 seats), and still operating. Art Deco facade, fortress-style spire, Spanish-Mediterranean themed interior with painted starry ceiling that has its own weather (clouds drift across before the film). Classified historic monument 1981.
Worth seeing a film in the main hall (Salle Grand Rex) — the smaller side rooms are ordinary. There's a backstage tour (les coulisses du cinéma) that includes the projection booth. The starry-ceiling 'meteo' starts about 15 min before the show.
- Hidden Parisstop 6 of 6 · 640 m
The smallest house in Paris
39 Rue du Château d'Eau (10th): one room wide, one window per floor, three floors total. Built around 1880 to fill a property dispute — the family on either side refused to sell, so the inheriting daughter built up vertically in the alley between them.
Walk along Rue du Château d'Eau between Place de la République and Boulevard de Strasbourg. The house is between nos. 37 and 41. It's a private home — don't ring the bell.
Within a few minutes' walk
- Le SyndicatSpeakeasy bar€€ · 2 minThe storefront is papered over with torn gig posters; the only signal is a gold metallic curtain. Inside, every cocktail is built exclusively from French spirits — Armagnac, Cognac, Calvados, Chartreuse.
- 52 Faubourg Saint-DenisNeo-bistro€€ · 2 minA walk-in-only neo-bistro from the Compagnon group with a short rotating menu — the egg-yolk ravioli with ham and mushroom is the signature.
- La Reine du KashmirIndian / Pakistani€ · 3 minOne of the steadier kitchens in the covered Passage Brady, the glass-roofed alley of South Asian restaurants behind Strasbourg–Saint-Denis. Skip the touts working the passage and order the biryani or a tandoori-grill thali.
- Urfa DürümKurdish / Turkish dürüm€ · 3 minA counter doing chicken or kefta dürüm grilled to order and rolled in a thin galette with herbs and onion — among the best cheap eats on Faubourg Saint-Denis.
- New MorningJazz club€€ · 3 minA 450-capacity room running since 1981, broad enough in its booking to put gospel, the Bad Plus, Kenny Garrett and Joshua Redman in a single fortnight.
- Jah Jah by Le TricycleVegan Afro-Caribbean€ · 3 minA vegan Afro-Caribbean kitchen that grew out of three years selling hot dogs off a delivery tricycle. The daily bowls stack grains, legumes and sauce-slicked vegetables, flanked by cauliflower wings and the namesake hot dog.
Where to stay near Pouliche
- Hôtel Paradis ParisBudget design hotel€€ · 5 minA 3-star boutique on a quiet pedestrianised street between Gare du Nord and Gare de l'Est; 38 individually styled, light-filled rooms with distinctive headboards.
- Hôtel Providence ParisBoutique hotel€€ · 8 minAn 18-room jewel box of velvet and brass near the Canal Saint-Martin — every room has its own cocktail tap, with a much-loved bistro and bar downstairs.
- Hôtel de NellDesign hotel€€€ · 8 minThirty-three rooms on a quiet street off the Grands Boulevards, designed by Jean-Michel Wilmotte in sand tones, oak and stone — hushed where the neighbourhood is loud.
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The district · 10e
Canal Saint-Martin & Gare du Nord — Canal ParisThe locks and iron footbridges of the Canal Saint-Martin, the South Asian Passage Brady, the Faubourg Saint-Denis food strip, and two big stations. Young, mixed, and where a lot of the good cheap eating is.
Best for: Twenty-somethings and food-first travellers; lively rather than pretty.
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