Where to eat · Classic riverside bistro · €€ · 4e · Le Marais & Île Saint-Louis
Le Trumilou
A bistro on the quai facing Île Saint-Louis, open since 1964 and largely unreconstructed down to the canard aux pruneaux. Prices have stayed closer to the neighbourhood's past than its present.
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Order the canard aux pruneaux and ask for a window table onto the Seine. Closed roughly 31 July–22 August.
Getting there
- Pont Marie (Cité des Arts)7280 m · 5 min walk
- Hôtel de Ville de Paris - 4ème Arrondissement111340 m · 6 min walk
- Cité4490 m · 9 min walk
Walks that pass nearby
- Bouquinistes of the Seinestop 6 of 6 · 110 m
Quai de l'Hôtel de Ville
Between Pont d'Arcole and Pont Marie. The longest single stretch of bouquinistes on the right bank — about 30 stalls in an unbroken line. Eclectic, with several specialising in detective novels, vintage cookbooks, and postcards.
End the walk at Pont Marie. Stop at the corner of Pont Louis-Philippe — the postcard stall there has a card index of nineteenth-century Paris postcards by arrondissement, and the seller will look up your street if you ask.
- Marais & Bastillestop 4 of 6 · 230 m
Hôtel de Ville
Paris city hall. The current building is an 1882 reconstruction — the original was burned down by the Commune in 1871 — but it's an exact replica of the Renaissance original.
Walk around to the south side — the Seine-facing facade is the prettier one. Free temporary exhibitions inside the Salle Saint-Jean (entrance on the south); always worth a glance even if you've never heard of the artist.
- Saint-Louis Loopstop 6 of 6 · 240 m
Pont Saint-Louis (return)
Back to the western tip of the island. The view of the Hôtel-Dieu hospital and the eastern apse of Notre-Dame is the closer of the island's two unforgettable angles. The tip itself, where the Quai aux Fleurs meets the Quai de Bourbon, is the locals' picnic spot.
Sit on the low stone wall at the very tip of the island. River-tour boats pass directly below; you'll get spray on a windy day. End the loop here or cross back to Île de la Cité.
- Île de la Cité & Saint-Louisstop 6 of 7 · 240 m
Pont Saint-Louis
Footbridge between the two islands. Always busy with buskers — the acoustics under the bridge make any cellist sound great. Cross to Île Saint-Louis.
If a cellist or jazz duo is playing at the centre, that's the bridge experience — stop and listen for a few minutes. Pedestrians only; bikes are supposed to dismount but mostly don't.
Within a few minutes' walk
- Maison AlephPâtisserie€€ · 5 minMyriam Sabet's Levantine pastry shop in the Marais trades in nests of crisp kadaif angel-hair filled with creams — fig and cinnamon, pistachio and mastic. A compact counter to eat in, and benches around the Hôtel de Ville if it fills.
- Le Studio des ParfumsPerfume atelier€€€ · 8 minA Marais atelier where you blend and bottle your own fragrance from raw essences under a perfumer's eye, then leave with the formula kept on file for reorders.
- MiznonIsraeli street food€ · 8 minEyal Shani's pita operation, transplanted from Tel Aviv, runs loud and fast on a narrow Pletzl street. The whole roasted cauliflower, charred and dressed in nothing but salt and tahini, has outlived the hype that first surrounded it.
- Chez MarianneJewish-Levantine deli€€ · 9 minA long-running corner of the Pletzl that sells its mezze by the count: you choose four, six or more items from a case of hummus, falafel, aubergine caviar and herring. The sit-down room is calmer than the falafel-window scrum outside.
- L'As du FallafelLevantine / falafel€ · 9 minThe Rue des Rosiers benchmark since 1979: the 'special' pita, fried aubergine and red cabbage under tahini, eaten on the move.
- Lafayette AnticipationsContemporary art foundation€ · 9 minThe Galeries Lafayette foundation's commissioning space in a Marais building Rem Koolhaas hollowed out around a glass exhibition tower that physically moves on rails between floors. Free shows of newly produced work.
Where to stay near Le Trumilou
- Hôtel Caron de BeaumarchaisBoutique hotel€€ · 5 minAn 18th-century conceit named for the author of The Marriage of Figaro, with a period harpsichord and gaming tables in the lobby, set on the Marais's central artery.
- Hôtel Le Bourg TibourgBoutique hotel€€€ · 6 minJacques Garcia's pocket-sized exercise in oriental-baroque excess on a narrow Marais lane — jewel tones, low light, heavy fabrics, thirty rooms. A small planted courtyard, breakfast from a vaulted cellar.
- MIJE MaraisHistoric-mansion hostel€ · 7 minThree seventeenth-century hôtels particuliers — Fourcy, Fauconnier and Maubuisson — run as a single hostel within a few minutes' walk of each other, a few streets back from the Seine. Stone courtyards, beamed dorms, a non-profit that has held these buildings since the 1960s.
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Landmarks nearby
The district · 4e
Le Marais & Île Saint-Louis — Medieval Paris, intactPlace des Vosges, the Pletzl's falafel, the Hôtel de Ville, and the impossibly tidy Île Saint-Louis. Beautiful and busy; the streets weren't built for the weekend numbers they now carry.
Best for: Walkers and romantics who want the storybook streets and will trade quiet for it.
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