Where to eat · Wine bar · € · 17e · Batignolles & Monceau
Les Caves Populaires
A blue-collar wine bar where a glass of the house red costs less than a métro ticket and a mixed charcuterie-and-cheese board runs €11. You can take an old wooden chair and play chess all afternoon under the big front window.
Booking through this link may earn par.is a commission. Same price as anywhere.
Arrive before 8pm — after that every seat belongs to someone who got there first.
Getting there
- Place de Clichy213260 m · 5 min walk
- La Fourche13280 m · 5 min walk
- Rome2340 m · 6 min walk
Around the corner
Moulin Rouge · 560 m away
Moulin Rouge is a cabaret in Paris, on the Boulevard de Clichy, at the Place Blanche, the intersection and end of the Rue Blanche.
Wikipedia ↗Walks that pass nearby
- Montmartre Heightsstop 1 of 6 · 560 m
Moulin Rouge
The 1889 cabaret where the can-can went global. The original windmill burned down in 1915; the current one is a 1925 reconstruction. Still doing two shows a night.
The exterior is the photo — the show inside is expensive and a touch tourist-trap. Walk east along Boulevard de Clichy to escape the area's neon, then cut up Rue Houdon to begin the climb.
- Painters' Viewsstop 6 of 7 · 560 m
Toulouse-Lautrec at Moulin Rouge
Toulouse-Lautrec painted his Moulin Rouge series 1892–1895, capturing dancers like La Goulue and Jane Avril. The paintings are in museums worldwide; the lithograph posters he made for the cabaret are in the BNF. The cabaret itself has rebuilt twice but kept its windmill silhouette.
Stand on Boulevard de Clichy in front of the Moulin Rouge for the iconic-poster angle. Inside, the show is descended from the cabaret of his time but is now firmly tourist; the exterior is the painting's content.
Within a few minutes' walk
- BodrumTurkish / kebab€ · 7 minThe meat is veal breast, boned and cut and marinated in a spice blend the owners trace to a grandfather's kitchen in Turkey — no turkey filler, which is the usual giveaway. People will tell you it's the best kebab in Paris; it is at least very good.
- Grand Hôtel ChicagoBoutique hotel€€ · 9 minA four-star on rue de Rome behind Gare Saint-Lazare, on the Batignolles edge — stylish rooms, a buffet breakfast, métro at the door. Soundproofing is the known weakness, so the courtyard side is the room to request.
- Cimetière de MontmartreCemetery€ · 9 minSunk into a former gypsum quarry below the streets, with the iron Pont Caulaincourt carried straight over the graves. Zola, Degas, Stendhal and Berlioz lie here; Dalida's flowered bust draws a daily crowd. Quieter and more wooded than Père-Lachaise, and full of cats.
- PoussinWine bar / cave à manger€€ · 9 minJudith Cercós, a sommelière, and Ludovic Dubois run this small cave à manger on French-Iberian lines, the plates fine and the list leaning hard south. The bottles outnumber the seats, which tells you what the place is really about.
- Maison SouquetBelle Époque hotel€€€ · 10 minA former maison close near the Moulin Rouge, redone by Jacques Garcia in full Belle Époque dress: rooms named for courtesans, a winter garden, a private pool you book by the hour. Theatrical and deliberately sealed off from the street.
- Hôtel Joke AstotelDesign hotel€€ · 11 minPlayful, colourful modern design behind a Haussmann façade at the foot of Place Blanche, three minutes from the Moulin Rouge — mirror and light play by architect Philippe Maidenberg.
Where to stay near Les Caves Populaires
- Hôtel EldoradoBohemian boutique hotel€€ · 1 minTwenty-odd rooms strung along a courtyard garden in Batignolles, decorated by an owner with a magpie eye — patterned wallpapers, Persian textiles, Art Deco fittings, none of it matching on purpose. The garden restaurant and wine bar are the social centre.
- Rendez-Vous BatignollesBoutique hotel€€ · 2 minForty-seven rooms across two buildings on a quiet street near Place de Clichy, designed for the residential, market-driven end of Batignolles rather than the tourist circuit. Contemporary rooms, serious beds, an ILO Collection address.
- Joli Môme BatignollesBoutique hotel€€ · 3 minOpened in late 2025 on rue des Batignolles and run as a household rather than a hotel: a communal breakfast table of local produce, a free homemade afternoon tea and an evening wine-and-cheese apéritif thrown in.
Booking through this link may earn par.is a commission. Same price as anywhere.
The district · 17e
Batignolles & Monceau — Village in the citySplit between formal Monceau in the south and the village-feel Batignolles in the north — a covered market, an organic open-air one, a big new park over the old rail yards, and a local restaurant scene.
Best for: Those wanting a residential, restaurant-rich base away from the crowds.
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